It is still, unfortunately, all too common for men wearing a suit who feel overdressed to be the first to leave the pocket square out of their outfit.
What a fatal thought! For the pocket square — also known as the “pochette” — has always been an essential part of menswear and inseparable from the suit or jacket.
Few would believe that its origins stretch back to the 14th century. The “pochette” was born when King Richard II declared it uncouth to blow one’s nose into a sleeve or onto the ground. Ever since, the use of a handkerchief has been regarded as a mark of refinement and social standing.
In a time when men are increasingly forgoing the tie, they ought to consider where the missing splash of colour is to come from.
I would not go so far as to describe the already very spartan business look as boring, but a complete absence of colour really will not do — for the business wardrobe need not be monotonous at all. In days gone by, a man would tie a red or blue tie to his charcoal grey or navy suit and show a little colour. Today, on the other hand, various trendsetters in the fashion world claim that the tie is out.
And when the pocket square is missing on top of that, one really can, without hesitation, call such a business outfit thoroughly dull.
SO HOW DOES ONE WEAR A POCHETTE?
As with every element of the male wardrobe, there are rules, etiquette and conventions — and the pocket square is naturally no exception. The pochette comes in various fabrics, colours and patterns. Most often it is made of silk, cotton or linen. Note, however, that the silk pocket square is available in every conceivable colour and pattern, whereas the cotton pochette is usually only to be had in white. Linen pocket squares can also be coloured, and are most often brought out in light, summery shades, as they suit summer menswear best.
THE POCHETTE IN PRACTICE!
A pocket square should be worn with every suit and every jacket — gladly with a tie, or, in smart casual, without.
5 IMPORTANT PRACTICAL TIPS FOR YOUR POCHETTE:
- A white pochette is worn with the dinner jacket (see image below).
- Any pocket square may be worn with the business suit. Its colour should complement the tie if the pochette is made of silk. However, the fabric of the pocket square should never be the same as that of the tie — that is an industry trick to sell more.
- If you wish to wear your suit without a tie, you may wear any pochette you like. In that case, match its colour to the suit.
- The cotton pochette, on the other hand, should be matched in colour to the shirt — and in this case too, please not in the same fabric. If the shirt has several colours, the pochette should follow the lighter one: for example, with a blue-and-white striped shirt, a white cotton pocket square is worn.
- The silk pocket square may be folded (known as the crown fold with the dinner jacket) or worn in a puff fold.
FOLDING A LINEN OR COTTON POCHETTE:
The perfect pocket square is rolled by hand, like a good cigar. That is to say, the edge is rolled and hand-stitched. This gives the edge a fuller look when it emerges from the pocket.
That is the hallmark of an exclusive pochette.
Depending on the occasion, you wear and fold your pocket square differently. There are countless techniques for folding it. Think, for example, of the presidential fold à la James Bond, which is shown to best advantage with a white pocket square. Still uncertain about the right pocket square for your outfit? Then simply try it. You will see what an effect such a small piece of fabric can have on your look.
Articles for further reading:
The shirt as a man’s calling card — Four essentials for buying the right shirt.